Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles DIY bedding M77 (pic heavy)

Yep I agree, this needs to be made into a "Sticky"
Thanks Dave.....you got me all horned up to do one of mine that needs doing.

Thanks dave,

Maybe now, I'll be brave enough to try it. Now to find a gun to play with....hhmmmm.

I have to agree with the rest--make this a sticky. This is a great representation of a typical bedding job.

Yep.

You now need some reloading equipment!

Besides the anchor holes you drilled into the stock and the forearm free float, did you do any other wood removal prior to applying compound?

Well I hope there is a benefit Joel

In my mind though the real benefit is often hidden or not so obvious, that being the insurance of consistent POI performance. Things are locked securely in place now & my floating revile should ensure that weather conditions which may effect my stock to a certain extent can not in turn effect my barrel. No variance in stock pressure because it simply doesn't touch now, no variance in heat dissipation for the same reasons.

Not all barrels like to float, I hope this one does. If it does, then I'll have myself a very trustworthy consistent performer here.

Thanks for the nice words guys, I'll have to read up the page to see if I've missed any questions.

Dave

I roughed the bedding areas with some pretty course sand paper (36 actually) to help the bedding grab some "tooth" in those areas. The little holes are kind of like having footings for the whole bed that takes form in it's respective area.

Hopefully this helps answer Tom "tzone"'s question about the holes which was posted further up as well.

In the post where I show the wet bedding placed in the areas I chose to bed, Note the picture where I carefully placed the recoil lug screw through it's hole in the stock. I hold that screw in place with my finger as I bring the recoil lug to the screw. My goal here is to engage the screw threads into the recoil lug before any bedding can squish into the threads.

In the tang area the majority of the bedding (which is such a small amount to begin with) is purposely kept away from the action screw hole so I don't have to worry so much about the tang action area threads.

I do apply release agent to the receiver threads as well as the screws just in case.

It doesn't always go as nicely as this job has gone. I have in the past accidentally filled recoil lug threads with bedding. On some actions this hole goes all the way through into the rifle action where the bolt lugs lock into the action

That's why you have to really study your rifle before you begin this process & try your best to trouble shoot any of these possibilities.

This is also why I crack the action loose from the stock before the bedding is completely cured. So you can clean your action screw threads relatively easily & look for any unplanned mishaps while the bedding is still in a manageable state. (before it's rock hard )

Thanks Dave, great thread! I have a vanguard that needs the same treatment!

I did an old Vanguard for my uncle earlier this week. About a 69-70 model in a wood stock, 300 WM.

That older vanguard had a real nice taper shape to the lug, she popped loose real nice. Turned out really good.

Some have a really boxy lug with no taper, like M70's. It's a very impressive bedding mold when you get done with a M70 but it's a bit intimidating glueing that big square lug into your stock

These are one example of a recoil lug hole that goes all the way through into your reciever where your bolt lugs lock in. (M70's)

Well done Dave.


Travis

If you find your barrel doesn't like to be free-floated (like mine), then what's the best way to add back the forearm pressure?

I shot my rifle, got decent groups and then decided to try free-floating the barrel to see if things got better yet. That was a mistake for my gun, it really opened up the groups.

So, I've read where Rugers like to have 8-10lbs of forearm pressure. Hang this weight on the front sling stud while some compound sets up in the first 1-2" of the stock channel?

Mine a newer one in a B&C Medalist stock. I am anxious to hear if the accuracy improves and gets rid of the fliers.

Blackfrog, although I've never had to do it, yes that is how I would go about it.

most contact pads that I've seen from the factory aren't very large though. Like a little half pipe pad up front that's only 1/2" to 3/4" wide.

Have you tried shimming up front to simulate a pressure/suport pad & shooting it that way?

Yes I did.

I got my rifle, shot decent groups for factory ammo (1-1.25") and then thought about free floating. My mistake was that I should have just shimmed underneath the recoil lug to raise the action a little and float the barrel- a temporary "free floating". Then I could at least go back if it didn't work. For some reason I wasn't thinking too well and I went ahead and removed some material from the forearm support to free-float the barrel.

I did a real nice job and sealed up the wood again.... Went and shot the gun and my groups opened up to 4" or so. In disgust with myself I cut a 1" strip from an ammo carton, took apart the stock, and placed that back in the tip of the forearm. Tightened everything back up and the groups went right back down to around an inch.

I was not happy at what I had done....

Hmm, well don't beat yourself up, I jumped into a free float without testing this one. I have yet to run into the situation where I go backwards from free floating. So, I'm crossing my fingers

That exactly answers it. Thanks.

Same here Dave.

Dave ... gotsa question ....

I have never tried to bed a rifle, but am going to this summer to a few. I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that the back of the tang shouldn't be touching the stock. I'm refering to the veritcal part. Is that not the case? I have heard that it contributes to cracked handles, but it appears as if the back of your tang does indeed make contact with the stock.

Any clarification by anyone ... would be greatly welcomed!

Hmm, well I can certainly understand that theory & that practice.

It does sound like a valid point.

I don't bed back there to absorb or spread the load of recoil, my only intent is to assist in the lateral alignment of the barreled action in the stock.

I would have to guess that your concern is valid and can only stand by & wait for someone else to chime in with an opinion.

I don’t think it’s likely I’ll crack the stock but I understand what you are saying. It’s the same reason I re-drill my action screw holes after bedding.