Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Canada Seeking tips for surviving long sits on stand

Take a Hooker with you, NO not a fisherman.

Not Canadian, but on the rare occasions I'm forced to sit in zero or sub-zero (not in TX obviously) I bring heavy insulated bibs, sized larger than I'd normally wear, and a down parka 2x as large as my normal size. Like everyone said the clothes need to be much bigger than normal. I found that combo to be warmer than wrapping myself in a sleeping bag and it still allows for movement. I keep these things in a pack and put them on as needed. An insulated thermos with a very hot beverage can also give you extra time when your core temp starts to crash.

When I really hunted in the snow a lot I used mukluks which suck for climbing rough terrain but are super warm.

Most now I just try to hunt in areas in which I can move around some. I'd rather spend 30 minutes leaning against a tree, move some, spend another 30 minutes leaning against another tree, move some, etc. But maybe your outfitter won't allow that.

AS BC30Cal says, you may need a shorter rifle, you could simple remove the recoil pad and protect the stock with electrical tape.

Well I'm not Canadian, but I grew up within sight of Brockville Ontario so, close enough. I've scanned this thread, maybe I've missed it, but one thing I didn't see that I would add is "don't wear too many socks." These days, in South Carolina, all I need on my feet right through deer season are my snake boots. If I'm up home hunting, however, I wear my Schnee's pacs with removable liners, a really thin pair of polypropylene sock liners, and a medium weight pair of wool socks at most. Leave some room for your feet in those boots. Too much sock and you'll cut the circulation in your feet. I have to admit, it took me a while to figure that out.

Thanks for all of the great suggestions (minus the hooker)! My feet tend to sweat and get cold first so I will definitely be going with the advice on using spray antiperspirant and packing extra socks. I have some -80 Lacrosse pack boots that are one size up from my normal boot so will hopefully be able to get a heat pac in there with plenty of room. I do need to track down some extra size 14 liners so I can swap daily as advised. I’m 6’4” and 270 (but hope to be 240 by fall) so I typically wear a XXL without a lot of room to spare. I will likely need to track down some generously cut outerwear to enable proper layering.

I am thinking of getting one of the heater body suits or a competing brand but don’t like the thought of being zipped up in it when a big buck cruises through. I’m glad the LOP was brought up. I’ve been going back and forth on what rifle to bring and this May pint me towards a .308 that is shorter than the rest of my options.

Thanks again for all the good intel and anything additional is appreciated.

A Jones hand warmer?

strosfann;
Afternoon sir, it's me once more from the banana belt of Canada for sure now, but as mentioned I grew up east of Yorkton on the Saskatchewan prairies.

Drying out the felt packs cannot be emphasized enough. If they're wet the next day you're done before you start.

With my old Sorels I've always had an additional felt liner underneath the removable felt pack bootie. A couple years back I found some with a metallic foil on the bottom and they actually might be okay, but just another felt liner underneath the bootie makes a huge difference.

When I was 15, my father took me out of school to hunt moose for a week in early December. It warmed up to -35°F one day but mostly it was colder than that. We left the rifles outside for the entire time as we didn't want them to sweat because they will do that. I had one rifle rust it's bore when I brought it in from chasing deer and just put it into the gun cabinet without wiping it down. Beware of sweating firearms...

Speaking of, make sure the rifle in question has weather proof lube in all spots. There was a thread going up in the Alaska forum about cold weather reliability that had some good intel in it. Usually we'd clean the inside of bolts and the trigger out with some aerosol cleaner like Brake Kleen and then use a dry graphite type lube. If castnblast is reading this ask him what works because he still hunts not far from where I lived for awhile and where we hunted.

Dad used to use a Jones hand warmer and honestly I know I inherited them when he passed but despite repeated efforts to find them, I've been unsuccessful so maybe I gave them to a buddy who lives further north? From what I recall they're fine, but as mentioned I just use the disposable ones - Hot Hands - is the brand that Costco had in the bulk box so that's what I use. They're better than not having them for sure.

Not to be indelicate, but understand that certain bodily functions are more of a procedure when you're wearing 6 layers of clothes which need to be removed and it's still -45° out. The learning curve is pretty quick for most of us and it is possible. Be careful to remove the layers far enough away from the process to prevent contamination - if you understand my meaning.

Few things ruin a hunt faster than contaminated hunting clothes - so I hear from reliable sources.

I've got a really fast metabolism so I eat all day long when I'm in the cold. A buddy who is a fair bit larger than me - and as noted previously that don't take much - can go much longer without eating and feeling chilled.

That's it for now, but I'll likely think about more after.

Off to plow out the neighbor's driveway now sir, it snowed again and they're down in Arizona where the smart Canadians spend this part of the year.

Dwayne

Wear a pair of thick fleece trunks over your lower baselayer and under the exterior pants.

-38...

NAY NAY !

Arctic Panic! Six inches of clothes, three inches of peter, and a full bladder!

If wearing/using goose down clothing don't wear anything over it that compresses it. Compress the loft and the garment loses a lot of its warmth, it takes very little to compress the loft.

I have a shortage of 'over-sized' winter clothes.
Make sure and put your clothes in a place where they'll fully dry before the next days hunt.

The body puts off a lot of moisture, moisture that can and does freeze inside the insulation of exterior garments.

A guy retiring to Alaska bought the best down clothes money could buy, Western Mountaineering/Feathered Friends/etc. . Once there he was freezing when outside for long periods of time because he wasn't thoroughly drying his at the end of the day.
He wound up using what the Alaskans wore, if I recall it was double fur, fur turned inward towards the body and fur outside.
Don't try and re-invent the wheel type thing.
Good luck...

Sitka Deer;
Good morning to you sir, I trust the you and your fine family are well and you're getting a decent winter overall up there.

Thanks for the chuckle and putting a name to a very real situation!

Since I grew up in that environment, most times it wasn't an insurmountable problem, but still it's wise to take precautions.

Anymore I can still do quite well until it's about -20° or so, but below that is just outside my comfort level somehow.

When I was a kid I lived for a few years about as far north as Edmonton - but in Saskatchewan - and I recall a couple days where it was -44° or perhaps a tad less. It was brisk for sure Sitka and even the snow machines started having parts break in that weather.

Thanks again for the laugh and all the best to you all.

Dwayne

I've hunted in Saskatchewan a handful of times and all outfits operate pretty much the same way; you'll do little walking, getting dropped off on a quad or pickup, so you're not likely to be sweated up.

Each time I hunted, I just brought an insulated jacket and pants with some basic layers beneath - and my heater body suit.

The heater suit works really, really well for containing all of you - and your body heat. And after a few outings, I just took my boots off (in the blind), added another sock, threw a couple of chemical packs in each foot area - presto, good for the day.

I loathe running a heater in the blind due to condensation so not being bundled up like the Michelin Man or severely constricted in movement is a blessing (with the heater suit) .

Your head is still exposed so make sure that is well insulated (also important if you're getting chauffeured in an open quad too). Throw a chemical heater in your headgear above the base of the neck for added warmth.

I didn't see it mentioned yet, BUT by doing some isometric exercises while sitting in a tree stand, or ground blind, will help get your heart rate up and blood flowing, and help keep a person warm as a result. It's something that I do when sitting for long periods and getting a chill. Works.

Copy on the isometrics - I do those as well to increase circulation and sometimes just to stay awake when there’s limited action.

About the rifle lubrication. It really is possible to have your rifle fail to fire if you have petroleum lubricants in the bolt body / firing mechanism. Especially likely if you have old, cruddy petroleum lubricants that have oxidized and become thick. I have only had one experience of a misfire at -40, but once was enough.
I keep my rifles clean and lubricated, but avoid using regular oil for lubrication. 3 in 1 household oil and most automotive oils and such are very bad choices for cold weather use. I'm not of the belief that eliminating all oil and replacing with graphite or teflon powder is the best solution. That gives you no rust protection when condensation forms on the metal when your rifle warms up, and it will warm up sometime. So I just strip and clean my rifles that will be used in extreme cold with a spray degreaser, and then lubricate the inside of the bolt and the safety and trigger mechanisms very lightly with a good SYNTHETIC lubricant. There are many good ones on the market. Remington CLP, Outers, and possibly the best - and the one I use the most, G-96. Whatever you use, it must remain liquid at extreme low temperatures. You can replace grease on your locking lugs and action rails with the light synthetic oil too, but it's much less important there.