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How tight are you guys torquing talley lw's? Guessing there's different recs for the receiver screws vs the ones that hold the rings together. Mounting up my first pair today. Thanks guys.

Farmer tight on bases. 15-20 in# on rings.

Talley says 25" lbs. to reciever- 18"lbs. on the caps.
Just make sure you get both sides of the caps pulled down equally. It's probably overkill but I use one of the old feeler gauges for spark plugs, the kind with about 20 or so blades and go from side to side snugging them with one less blade each time.

John

I've always gone 40 on the base screws and 15 to 18 on rings. Never a problem with about ten different rifles.

While installing a set of lightweights on a Kimber Montana a few weeks ago I called Talley to ask the torque specs. They responded that the bases were 25# and the rings 18#.

I better ease off on those base screws.

Thanks for the info. Be careful with talley LW. I just discovered the screws were aluminum. Buddy stripped one out installing a set but luckily we fixed it.

I do 20# on the bases and 17# on the rings. I'll never have another set lapped either, learned the hard way.

25# bases, 20# rings. Screws aren't aluminum, but might as phuqqing well be....

I didn't think the screws were aluminum. Have any of you guys changed out the screws before. I have a box of leupold screws and usually just toss the talley base screws and use the leupold ones. I do this because sometimes the talley screws are a tad too long, especially in the front mount on a Winchester model 70. Never had a bit of trouble with the Leupold screws...

Right from Talley:

7. Torque recommendations: Check the torque recommendations for your particular rifle scope before using these recommendations ...

For the Talley Lightweight Alloy Mounts: 20-25 in-lb for the base and 15-20 in-lb for the rings. ........

Talley Premium Steel Rings and Bases: bases 20-25 in-lb.

Fixed rings, bottom screw 35 in-lb, top screw 15-20 in-lb.

Detachable rings: large bottom screw 35 in-lb, small bottom screws 30 in-lb, top screws 15-20 in-lb.

If you use a thread locking adhesive then we suggest that you use a NON-permanent formula.


http://www.talleyscoperings.com/faq.html

My mistake on the aluminum screws. Was taking my buddies word for it. I used leupold screws when I installed them. Worked very well and they fit great.

I go 25 in/lb on base screw & 18 in/lb on rings. This is using QD Screwlocks exclusively on all my rifles.

I've seen the heads on the upper screws so lopsided they barely fit in the recess. Pretty pathetic, but they'll gladly send more.

This was from trying to crack a top half with no luck.

And this is why farmer tight isn't a good idea.

...another trick I've learned (maybe from 16bore?)...

When starting the screws, turn them counter clockwise until you hear or feel a slight "click". This will allow the pitch of the screws to be in proper alignment. They go in much easier this way.

I've also had better luck with LW's that allow the screw to protrude through the base without making contact with the screw holes. I've been known to open the hole up with a drill. If the holes are too tight and the screws start to thread into the aluminum, bad things happen. Seldom will they line up correctly with the threads in the receiver. This will strip a screw every time...

Yup, Pop puts a little note in each set. And yeah, it seems that when the base screws thread the base, schit be ugly.

Additionally, the "ribs" on the receivers of Tikkas can monkey threads pretty quick.

I torque my Talley every morning and sometimes at lunch.




Travis