Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Will arrows be accurate if...

All else be equal, except for position of vanes from knock.
Or,
Will arrows still fly true if by chance the vanes on a few arrows are an 1/8" closer or farther from the knock than majority of the others ?
How does distance from knock to vanes affect flight ?
If I add lighted knocks, would I need to increase tip weight to keep foc heavier by the 20 grains a knock weighs ?
Like going from a 100 to a 125gr point ?
Thanks guy, pain has me up, and dreaming of better days in the future to get out.

Never seem to make a difference in my 40 plus years of shooting bows.

Vane position won’t change a whole lot. 20 grains to the front or back of a shaft will change the spine. Hit the paper to verify spine

Consistency should be the goal. Although sounds like you are talking about small differences. Go shoot em and see what end results you are experiencing.

Small differences in where the fetching is located will not make a difference. Never noticed any change in my NFAA field and hunter setup which was used on targets to 80 yards. Wasn’t the greatest, but, didn’t embarrass my self even at national shoots. Of course there were notable exceptions to that which is why I wasn’t one of the greats lol.

The lighted nocks may or not change things. There are a ton of variables. Arrow weight is one. The lighter the arrow the more a weight change will affect flight. Where your FOC is now compared to after adding the nocks. If it was marginal before it may be awful now. The only way to find out is to check it. Your POI will likely change. How much will depend on how far you are shooting and the above factors. 20 yards unlikely much difference. The difference will likely increase the farther you get out.

You can fuss with a lot of things in archery and drive yourself crazy. I knew a guy that had to have his arrows to an exact FOC and an exact grain weight. He would spend hours building 12 arrows. He wasn’t any better better that I was ,but, was convinced he had the magical formula. My advice is if the FOC is within range shoot and see what happens.

Fletching position no.

Lighted nocks yes, but where I hunt 20 yards is a long shot and to 20 my lighted nocks have no effect on arrow flight.

Just getting things together to have ready when I'm able to start shooting.
The dozen arrows I bought have the fetching on a few, either a touch forward, or back from the majority.
Like arrows from different machines were just grabbed and pack, but fetching machines were set up close, but not exactly alike.

The lighted nocks on my Crossbow bolts are 30 grains and I run 125 grain broadheads so I think it would make a difference in the FOC . I am going to 150 grain broadheads next year and a lighter arrow shaft.

Won't make a bit of difference.

Over the years, between me and my boys, we've had 20-25 different bows. Used to be each new bow would get tuned for a different arrow weight, spine, length, etc, etc.

We've accumulated dozens of different arrows of various lengths, spines, and now they're mixed together in 5 gallon buckets.

I can grab any arrow out of a bucket and at 20yards the Mathews VXR will 10 ring 'em regardless of spine, right-helical, left-helical, 3" vanes, 4" feathers, no vanes, etc.

Great !
Thanks guys, can't wait til the doc says I can pull a bow back or shoot my shotgun !

I once thought you had a clue. This post shows you’re a fugging idiot!

And you're just another internet tough guy.

Nope, I just call bad information when I see it.

Modern designed compounds are so efficient there is very little variation in results of various spine arrows within a reasonable window.
If anything, the stiffer the better. And it is nearly impossible to be "too stiff" to shoot accurately.
But only the very under-spined shafts will show a measurable difference inside 20 yards.
With field points.
Broadheads and all bets are off.

Being excessively light in gpi is dangerous regardless.

OP, in regard to your question on vane positioning make sure all vanes on the individual arrow are the same. Some variation may be seen from arrow to arrow with vanes further back, or further forward but the key thing is for them to be balanced and even on each arrow.

FOC is something to chase for momentum calculations and those seeking deeper penetration, especially when shooting lower poundage.
Just set up the arrows the way you want, following good charts on poundage/length/spine and try to build every one of them exactly the same.
Consistency.

Hope you are improving and on the mend!